Summer 2016: Capitol Reef National Park

We let the boys sleep in and had a leisurely bowl of cereal and cup of coffee. (the extent of the "included continental breakfast" that seemed appealing).  I'm not into white toast and the fake, chemically "Light and Fit" yogurt, and that was the total menu. The kids have been good sports and deserve a rest.
Capitol Reef reminds me of Moab, Utah from last year's trip with Jeanne, and Chris reminded me it's probably because we're only 200 miles away on the same plateau. There is a small rock formation that looks like the US Capitol building and early settlers thought the cliffs were as dangerous as coral reefs are to sailors, hence the park's name. The cliffs also look like underwater sponges in places.
Walking home from the restaurant last night, I encountered a two foot gopher snake slithering across the asphalt. Of course my yelling and crying were fodder for the 3 guys to scare me with fake hissing and jokes the rest of the evening. They finally stopped once I threatened to hide their cell phones. But Jackson enjoyed surprising me with a stuffed snake in the gift shop, and I saw one wrapped around an apple tree in an orchard, so I kept expecting another one to greet me all day.
This morning we started with the most difficult hike, a one mile (one way) scramble up some cliffs mixed with a sandy path leading to Hickman Bridge. The  "bridge" is a skinny rock formation that looks like an arch to non-geologists like me. It took 2 hours round trip and the views were stunning.
After what felt like off roading in the Jeep over a couple of miles of switchbacks, we surprised the kids with a stop at one of the orchards in the Fruita historic district. Apples and plums looked tempting but were not ripe. We picked about 10 peaches and they were sweet as sugar. They finished up their junior ranger activities after we stopped to see the Petroglyph Panels and had lunch. We're down to peanut butter and jelly today. Chris and Kyle were thrilled; Jackson and I, not so much.
After lunch we hiked through Capitol Gorge, really a wash/dry riverbed with high walls marked with both petroglyphs over 1000 years old, and "pioneer marks" (graffitti) dating back to 1892.  We found some blocked off uranium mines from the Cold War era, and surprised the kids again with fresh tart cherry and strawberry pies topped with homemade ice cream at the historic Gifford House.
Honestly, today was the hottest and dustiest,  and by 4 pm, I looked forward to a shower and dinner. Had the best dinner of the trip at Diablo Cafe, where we tried the M-80 habanero croquettes and rattlesnake cakes in a garden setting. Take that, scary snake!
I love Park City, but I'm not looking forward to driving back tomorrow...this means our vacation is ending and back to work/school. We'll try not to think about it...let's watch Michael Phelps win his 4th gold and forget about that while we can.

The Scary/Cool Slot Canyons of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

We only have a couple days left before heading back to the sunshine state, so we had to try Grand Staircase one last time. This morning we actually set the alarm to wake up early in order to avoid any dangerous afternoon rains in the slot canyons. We need to be in and out by lunchtime, although the rain chance is slim to none. We turned into GS and took the 26 mile dirt and sand Hole in the Rock road. Our Jeep Wrangler 4x4 came in handy as we navigated a dusty, bumpy, winding passage to slot canyons Dry Fork, Peek a Boo and Spooky Gulch. Looking forward to another adventurous day, then driving to Torrey, Utah for the last 2 days at Capitol Reef National Park.
We got lucky as we entered the trailhead around 8 am and met a retired couple who seemed to have done the hike before, but later found out they hadn't. We walked with them about a mile downhill over rocks and at one point had to slide on our butts to continue because there was no way to maintain our footing standing up.
Finally we arrived at the first entrance: Dry Fork Gulch. This was a slot canyon recommended  by our two new companions and we walked through a narrow riverbed maybe a quarter of a mile. At some spots, we had to walk along the walls with both feet and hands along the sides as it was too narrow for your boot to take a step down. The walls on either side of us were tall...as you looked overhead you could only see a sliver of blue sky. It looked like something one would see in a travel guidebook, but it was for real.
Although we kept pace with the couple, they ditched us at the next stop, Peek a Boo. Stupid name really. I would call it Slick Mud Puddles. The initial entrance required a straight uphill climb using four indentations in the rock like you would see in an extreme outdoor documentary movie. After we scrambled up, Jackson actually helping the 3 of us,  we continued through the coolest looking formations. But it was beyond our ability level, and after Chris, then Kyle, stepped in ankle-deep mud that "smelled like butt and broken dreams" (Chris's words), the two of them lost badly needed traction to advance further up the slickrock. Jackson probably could have made it further, but I was perfectly ok with aborting the mission.
Our last stop was Spooky Gulch. We returned to the wash (a riverbed that would clearly fill with rushing water during a downpour....are those clouds forming overhead??) and walked along for maybe half a mile further. At one point we slogged through sand reminiscent of Hollywood Beach. Spooky Gulch was indeed spooky...narrow to the point of having to walk sideways, remove your backpack, and hold your breath or you wouldn't fit through!
It was getting hot (already 90 and only 10:30 in the morning) as we headed back uphill to the parking area. Keep in mind this is all red clay, dusty, and there are no signs. Every now and then, a vertical pile of rocks (a cairn) led the way, but sometimes you couldn't find one. As we greeted maybe 20 hikers walking in as we were walking out, I kept thinking "I must be getting old." I can't imagine starting this late...I would not have made it back out. People die out here. Looking back at the clouds brewing makes me nervous and I hope the other hikers we greeted on the way out will be fine.
Halfway along the unpaved road, we gave the kids a break and stopped at Devil's Garden. This is an area where the Ranger recommended they could climb and enjoy themselves. I was pretty pooped and stayed at the Jeep and made the sandwiches while they scrambled around with Chris for a while. The clouds were rolling in and I was glad to be halfway off of this road already.
On the way to our last hotel in Torrey we stopped at the Ancestral Pueblo ruins at Anasazi State Park. A museum explained their way of life and the excavated ruins were left in their place and covered outside...some over 1000 years old.
We took the scenic route past free range cattle and gorgeous vistas. Enjoyed some great mexican food and by 4:30 pm our phones started dinging madly...flash flood warnings for 2 hours. Those rain clouds did, indeed, open up. Scary stuff.

Kodachrome Basin State Park Lives up to its Name

We left Bryce Canyon with a heavy heart this morning but looked forward to escaping the crowds in a more remote area. Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is a relatively new public area signed into existence by President Bill Clinton 20 years ago. The visitor center was gorgeous but the ranger informed us the two (unpaved) roads we hoped to drive on were closed due to the rains last week. Plan B was Kodachrome, and I must admit, it lived up to its name. The boys probably enjoyed this park the most, since we got to scramble up slickrock in some spots, which is  hardpacked entrada sandstone. We spent the entire morning outside again, with views and a landscape completely unlike Florida. Checked into the motel and experienced air conditioning again for the first time in 5 days, followed by a dinner of smoked ribs, brisket, and burgers. Life doesn't get much better. Oh, and we watched the Olympics for the first time, since we had no TV the past 5 days, either.

Bryce Canyon 2

We started hiking early around 8 am and went into the canyon at Sunrise Point, a 3 minute walk from our cabin. Navajo Loop and Queen's Garden were full of hoodoos, rock formations that remind me of tall ghosts. Total hike was about 7 miles, some of it climbing fairly steep steps. Toward the end of the hike around 12 noon it got windy and the cool breeze was a surprising relief. We ate back at the cabin and took a break.  After exploring the visitor center exhibits we enjoyed a few minutes of unexpected wifi. Used the free bus/shuttle system, as the parking lots near the popular stops were closed due to lack of room. Hiking is not fun after 2:00, as it is super sunny, dry, and the exertion could even be dangerous. We've been lucky to enjoy temperatures under 90 and the rain with flash flood warnings all last week (which would have prevented any hiking in narrow passages) is all but gone.

Bryce Canyon 1

We woke up to the sun coming in the windows around 6 am. Chris was already out of the cabin and walking around, so we packed up to leave. As we opened the door to set the bags out on the porch a cute chipmunk scampered inside. Jackson asked if he could pet it since it reminded him of Stormy, our gerbil. Realizing that might be a bad idea, we shooed him/her out and got on the road by 7:30 am.
As we left Grand Canyon, we observed some bison grazing and a bunch of wild turkeys pecking along the side of the road. A stunning view of the edge of the red and orange plateau welcomed us to our next vista, Bryce Canyon National Park.

Leaving Grand Canyon, Arizona and reentering Utah.

The boys and I enjoyed the Wildlife Museum just outside the Park.

This was our busiest day so far. We were at Bryce over the weekend and there were hordes of visitors...had to wait a bit to take this photo.

Jackson liked this exhibit...it reminded him of Stormy.

Our first stop in Bryce was at the end of the park...Rainbow Point. Packed with tour buses and cars. We had a delicious picnic and escaped the crowds by hiking the 1 mile Bristlecone Trail.

Great views without the crowds...just hike a few minutes and they're gone.

Original lodge from 1925. We ate dinner and listened to 2 educational programs here...one led by a young intern starting college in one week. We stayed in newly renovated cabins very close to the rim, similar to those at Grand Canyon. No air conditioning and morning temps around 50.

Saturday Mule Ride

This morning we let the kids sleep in and caught the sunrise over the canyon. The light started pouring in the cabin around 5:15, so it wasn't difficult to get motivated. Chris had already been outside for an hour, so I made my coffee and joined him. Interesting cloud formations over a shared breakfast burrito and cinnamon roll started the day. Mule ride starts at 8, so we'll get the boys up soon.
After the mules, we hiked throughout the North Rim. The fire damaged areas in Point Imperial were most impressive.

Hiking the Kaibab Trail, Then Rain

Wifi upload is not faring well. I guess when you're in a national park, you're supposed to be enjoying the wilderness, right? Chris woke up to a beautiful sunrise while the rest of us slept in until 6:20. We packed up and headed out toward the trail. It's 14 miles long and hikers share it with the mule riders. I think you know where I'm going with this (see photos). We had to step over mule poop mines and pools of urine.  Luckily, they eat a lot of hay, so the smell was tolerable. We hiked about 2 miles one way and it took 1.5 hours. It was all downhill and medium difficulty--imagine doing the stairstepper machine for that long. We then had to work our way back out and up. That took about 2 and a half hours more and it was like doing lunges at the gym the whole time. Worth the view, though. Lots of small animals. We had a sandwich and sat in the lodge for a couple of hours, enjoying the floor to ceiling-window view. The clouds started to roll in so I took a couple of pictures and we decided to shower up and have a glass of wine while the kids relaxed.  Our dinner is in the lodge at 6 and all the tables have a great view. The other dinner choices are a buffet (Yelp said it was bad), deli (nah...we eat that for lunch) and a bar (not great for the kids and we brought our own). Tonight we were going to attend the 7:30 lecture led by the Ranger about Anasazi pottery making but we were pooped out by 8. Maybe tomorrow.  Another great day.